Another hot day in the Highlands. Into a good pace now so were in by
lunch, sea views all the way. Great hostel, got all the kit sorted out
and am relaxing as Jim knocks up a big chicken dinner before we tackle
the Balrog. About 3 days until we reach the sign.
Thursday, 31 July 2008
Wednesday, 30 July 2008
JULY 30TH - DORNOCH TO BRORA
Left the village with supplies and walked to Loch Fleet, went round it
as wading finished off a local a few years ago. Came into Golsbie and
then the beach, friendly husky keeper gave us coffee. Further up found
some seals lying about. Very hot day, crossed a golf course, in for
tea with the midge.
as wading finished off a local a few years ago. Came into Golsbie and
then the beach, friendly husky keeper gave us coffee. Further up found
some seals lying about. Very hot day, crossed a golf course, in for
tea with the midge.
JULY 29TH - TAIN TO DORNOCH
Half day as both needed repairing. Sea walks, saw hooded crows, site
with ping pong table, nice rest. Few days along the side of the
mountains, then into JOG and maybe a boat trip to see a man about a
puffin.
with ping pong table, nice rest. Few days along the side of the
mountains, then into JOG and maybe a boat trip to see a man about a
puffin.
Tuesday, 29 July 2008
JULY 28TH - EVANTON TO TAIN
Sunny day, reached next town for fry up, discovered square sausage.
Pushed on over ridge, a thick mist rolled towards us as we approached
the sea. Camped near distillery and small bar, all very nice, Feels
remote here, people friendly. Coffee time.
Pushed on over ridge, a thick mist rolled towards us as we approached
the sea. Camped near distillery and small bar, all very nice, Feels
remote here, people friendly. Coffee time.
Sunday, 27 July 2008
JULY 27th - INVERNESS TO EVANTON
So begins the final leg. Crossed the bridge north fuelled on two days
of fast food, then forest and hill roads to this little town with very
flash campsite. Decisions tomorrow on last route. Bought new socks,
off to burn old. Great to have evening card games.
of fast food, then forest and hill roads to this little town with very
flash campsite. Decisions tomorrow on last route. Bought new socks,
off to burn old. Great to have evening card games.
Thursday, 24 July 2008
JULY 24TH - INVERNESS
Ran out of coffee and so made an early run into town where I am now
mainlining espresso and sitting in the sun reading the paper like the
last week of rugged mountain walking was all a bizarre dream. Off to
book my site, back on the road Sunday for the final section.
mainlining espresso and sitting in the sun reading the paper like the
last week of rugged mountain walking was all a bizarre dream. Off to
book my site, back on the road Sunday for the final section.
Wednesday, 23 July 2008
JULY 23RD - AVIEMORE TO AUCHNAHILLIN
(4 miles south of Culloden James) Full day today. The dusty Highlands
in blazing sun (28 degrees apparently) is an unusual sight, and the
Scots seem to take cover, the only walkers I met in the moumtains were
English. Took the scenic route along General Wade's military road.
Heard a wolf at one point very loud but far off, wondered if the
sanctuary was nearby. Site a morning's walk to Inverness, and a few
days of rest before the last leg.
in blazing sun (28 degrees apparently) is an unusual sight, and the
Scots seem to take cover, the only walkers I met in the moumtains were
English. Took the scenic route along General Wade's military road.
Heard a wolf at one point very loud but far off, wondered if the
sanctuary was nearby. Site a morning's walk to Inverness, and a few
days of rest before the last leg.
Tuesday, 22 July 2008
JULY 22ND - NEWTONSOMETHING TO AVIEMORE
Another beautiful day (not many entries started like that so far)
filled with mountains and forests and roadkill. This town is the
tourist gateway to the Cairngorms and heaving with people. One of the
mountains appears to still be snowy. Went into a frantic Tesco to get
some Bombay Mix, then forgot why I was there in the chaos. Was a
hardened Londoner in what feels like another life. Reading Klein's
Shock Doctrine. Saw a weasal.
filled with mountains and forests and roadkill. This town is the
tourist gateway to the Cairngorms and heaving with people. One of the
mountains appears to still be snowy. Went into a frantic Tesco to get
some Bombay Mix, then forgot why I was there in the chaos. Was a
hardened Londoner in what feels like another life. Reading Klein's
Shock Doctrine. Saw a weasal.
Monday, 21 July 2008
JULY 21 - DALWHINNIE TO NEWTONMORE
Half day today as urgently needed to wash/burn clothes. Sun shone at
last, mountain landscape looks more like North Africa in places.
Picked up a book on Charles II someone discarded. Kit once again
replenished although I doubt I'll need to rough it until after
Inverness, which is 60 odd miles north. There I'll be joined by Jim
for the last leg up the north-east coast, where I'm told the beach
makes good camping. Seems unlikely!
last, mountain landscape looks more like North Africa in places.
Picked up a book on Charles II someone discarded. Kit once again
replenished although I doubt I'll need to rough it until after
Inverness, which is 60 odd miles north. There I'll be joined by Jim
for the last leg up the north-east coast, where I'm told the beach
makes good camping. Seems unlikely!
JULY 20TH - CALVINE TO DALWHINNIE
Emerged from forest and headed into the Pass of Drumochter, entering
the Highlands. The weather let me through but the wind fought me all
the way, needed all my emergency rations. Made it into petrol station,
ate 5 kilos of chocolate (my beer gut reserves are all used up) then
pitched behind a creepy disused transport cafe.
the Highlands. The weather let me through but the wind fought me all
the way, needed all my emergency rations. Made it into petrol station,
ate 5 kilos of chocolate (my beer gut reserves are all used up) then
pitched behind a creepy disused transport cafe.
Saturday, 19 July 2008
JULY 19TH - PITLOCHRY TO CALVINE
Walked up to the foot of the mountains, and took dinner in a pub, game
pie, having passed various historic castles and stones. No site so
wandered half a mile into this mossy old wood next to a waterfall and
made camp for the night.
pie, having passed various historic castles and stones. No site so
wandered half a mile into this mossy old wood next to a waterfall and
made camp for the night.
Friday, 18 July 2008
JULY 18TH - DUNKELD TO PITLOCHRY
Short forest walk today, following a cycle track north. Interesting
little town with a dam and a bouncy bridge. Campsite surrounded by
misty mountain. Tomorrow promises to be a bit more remote so another
early start fuelled by the ridiculous amount of coffee supplies I
carry about. Probably my last chance to see a pine marten too, they're
bloody elusive, as are the squirrels (alive anyway). Plenty of deer
though.
little town with a dam and a bouncy bridge. Campsite surrounded by
misty mountain. Tomorrow promises to be a bit more remote so another
early start fuelled by the ridiculous amount of coffee supplies I
carry about. Probably my last chance to see a pine marten too, they're
bloody elusive, as are the squirrels (alive anyway). Plenty of deer
though.
Thursday, 17 July 2008
JULY 18TH - PERTH TO DUNKELD
Crossed back over Perth and finally got out of towns and back on the
lanes and trails. Light rain fell sporadically all day, forming steam
on the ground, gathering round the mountains and falling again.
Further up tomorrow and then a long mountain valley trek on Saturday,
weather permitting. Hating midge spray, covered in DEET.
lanes and trails. Light rain fell sporadically all day, forming steam
on the ground, gathering round the mountains and falling again.
Further up tomorrow and then a long mountain valley trek on Saturday,
weather permitting. Hating midge spray, covered in DEET.
Wednesday, 16 July 2008
JULY 16TH - KINROSS TO PERTH
Vacated festival where the clean up continued and continued north in
the sun following the Tay and some lochs. Had a wander around Perth
and then into some forest and this site. Some decent hills coming up,
leaving the towns for a while now until Inverness.
the sun following the Tay and some lochs. Had a wander around Perth
and then into some forest and this site. Some decent hills coming up,
leaving the towns for a while now until Inverness.
Tuesday, 15 July 2008
JULY 15TH - EDINBURGH TO KINROSS
Back to it and another long day, over the Firth of Forth and into
Fife. Took a while to get back into the mindset but arrived just in
time to realise my intended site is in fact T in the Park. Owners let
me stay kindly anyway, as they fix up the devastation.
Fife. Took a while to get back into the mindset but arrived just in
time to realise my intended site is in fact T in the Park. Owners let
me stay kindly anyway, as they fix up the devastation.
Saturday, 12 July 2008
JULY 12TH - GALASHIELS TO EDINBURGH
35 miles, job done. Posh hotel booked for three nights of holiday
bliss. Signing off til the last push.
bliss. Signing off til the last push.
Friday, 11 July 2008
JULY 11TH - JEDBURGH TO GALLASHIELS
Woke to the sound of bagpipes celebrating the expulsion of the English
and an old tree. Ate haggis and left quickly. Dilemma now, 33 miles to
Edinburgh, not a lot in between. Reckon 25 is about my best so far.
Have no map for the last 15, but there'll be signs. Want to try and
avoid being the hiker in Trainspotting seeking directions. All depends
what time I get up.
and an old tree. Ate haggis and left quickly. Dilemma now, 33 miles to
Edinburgh, not a lot in between. Reckon 25 is about my best so far.
Have no map for the last 15, but there'll be signs. Want to try and
avoid being the hiker in Trainspotting seeking directions. All depends
what time I get up.
Thursday, 10 July 2008
JULY 10TH - BYRNESS TO JEDBURGH
Crossed the border today. Stood briefly at Carters Bar (no bar - I'm
withdrawing patronage) but moved on fast as rain lashed down all day.
Have come indoors as kit needs the full service if I'm to continue in
this weather, ninja laundry operation in progress. Odd that this
morning Geordie accents were standard and now its all Scots. The first
helping of neeps and haggis can't be far off, and this is the weather
for it.
withdrawing patronage) but moved on fast as rain lashed down all day.
Have come indoors as kit needs the full service if I'm to continue in
this weather, ninja laundry operation in progress. Odd that this
morning Geordie accents were standard and now its all Scots. The first
helping of neeps and haggis can't be far off, and this is the weather
for it.
Wednesday, 9 July 2008
JULY 8TH AND 9TH - HALTWHISTLE TO BELLINGHAM TO BYRNESS
Busy couple of days, over Hadrians Wall, through Wark Forest and the
national park. I am but a stone's throw from the border, which I will
cross in the morning. Could feasibly be in Edinburgh by Sunday.
national park. I am but a stone's throw from the border, which I will
cross in the morning. Could feasibly be in Edinburgh by Sunday.
Monday, 7 July 2008
JULY 7TH - ALSTON TO HALTWHISTLE
Alston's weather forecast is solid drizzle permanently, it being high
on the hill. Haltwhistle is a fair bit jollier, I've taken a room as
all my spares are wet. Bought a copy of The Power And The Glory, a
mass of junk food to make up for all the fruit I've been eating and I
have a TV and a bath, so crazy times ahead. Tomorrow I cross the Wall.
on the hill. Haltwhistle is a fair bit jollier, I've taken a room as
all my spares are wet. Bought a copy of The Power And The Glory, a
mass of junk food to make up for all the fruit I've been eating and I
have a TV and a bath, so crazy times ahead. Tomorrow I cross the Wall.
Sunday, 6 July 2008
JULY 6TH - ORMSBY TO ALSTON
Grim start to the day, big hills in a rain cloud. Got to do some Croc
Dundee hypnosis on a frantic sheep stuck in wire. Then the clouds
parted to reveal hill top cafe serving coffee and tiffin, much needed.
Stormed into town, pitching on resi site which are always friendly if
they take you. Getting my 10 to 15 done by one these days, so
afternoons spent in cafes reading and writing. Suspect tomorrow may be
longer.
Dundee hypnosis on a frantic sheep stuck in wire. Then the clouds
parted to reveal hill top cafe serving coffee and tiffin, much needed.
Stormed into town, pitching on resi site which are always friendly if
they take you. Getting my 10 to 15 done by one these days, so
afternoons spent in cafes reading and writing. Suspect tomorrow may be
longer.
Saturday, 5 July 2008
JULY 5TH - APPLEBY TO ORMSBY
Another quick stint today, the weather up here is pretty poor. Nothing
here but a pub, which I will shortly be visiting before staggering
into my sodden tent and heading for Hadrian's wall in the morning.
here but a pub, which I will shortly be visiting before staggering
into my sodden tent and heading for Hadrian's wall in the morning.
Friday, 4 July 2008
JULY 4TH - KIRKBY STEPHEN TO APPLEBY
Romped the 12 miles of flat ground at last on this one and so spent
the afternoon eating a kilo of peanut mms and lying in the sun, which
is one way to squander time and physique. Another small market town
with its local craft stuff, all very nice. Concluded today that the
average food out served in England is shabby and over-priced wherever
you go. The art of sandwich needs a rethink nationally.
the afternoon eating a kilo of peanut mms and lying in the sun, which
is one way to squander time and physique. Another small market town
with its local craft stuff, all very nice. Concluded today that the
average food out served in England is shabby and over-priced wherever
you go. The art of sandwich needs a rethink nationally.
Thursday, 3 July 2008
JULY 3RD - HAWES TO KIRKBY STEPHEN
Enjoyed a happy day off with my Kiwi cousin, also on UK travels, with
the finest camp cooked meal of the journey. Today crossed the border
into Cumbria past spectacular hills. The Scottish midge has found its
way south and is a pain nightly after 8. I should reach Hadrian's Wall
by Monday, followed by some monstrous forest.
the finest camp cooked meal of the journey. Today crossed the border
into Cumbria past spectacular hills. The Scottish midge has found its
way south and is a pain nightly after 8. I should reach Hadrian's Wall
by Monday, followed by some monstrous forest.
Tuesday, 1 July 2008
JULY 30TH - THE YORKSHIRE DALES
Lost track of when I last did this, Virgin not well served out here.
Last few nights were Hebdon Bridge, Foulridge, Malham, Something
Ribble, and tonight Hawes. Currently stood on top of Wether Fell being
buzzed by fighters and munching Kendal Mint Cake, the hiker's crack
cocaine. Possible day off tomorrow if nice village. Met some more
friendly hikers, eaten every flavour of Super Noodle, and reached
Thatcher in my 100 years of politics book.
Last few nights were Hebdon Bridge, Foulridge, Malham, Something
Ribble, and tonight Hawes. Currently stood on top of Wether Fell being
buzzed by fighters and munching Kendal Mint Cake, the hiker's crack
cocaine. Possible day off tomorrow if nice village. Met some more
friendly hikers, eaten every flavour of Super Noodle, and reached
Thatcher in my 100 years of politics book.
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