Some pictures

So I'm just popping the end of the pictures into the slide show, and that pretty much wraps it up. After a couple of weeks I've got rid of the aches and pains. Thanks again for all the support.

AUGUST 3RD - WICK TO JOHN O'GROATS

Well, here I am, in my tent, my home, surrounded by blinking
lighthouses and islands. It's been almost 3 months, but living in the
present one day to the next makes it hard for me to look back
coherently, it's an odd feeling. Thank-you for everyone who gave to
the PDS (you still can!), and for all the encouragement that has seen
me through the highs and lows, and to Kiran and Jim for keeping me
company. And everyone asks, what next?

AUGUST 3RD - DUNBEATH TO WICK

21 miles in hot sun, beautiful sea views. Into Wick, massive once a
year bonfire on our campsite, currently surrounded by fireworks. One
more day.

AUGUST 1ST - HELMSDALE TO DUNBEATH

Today was all about fog. Standing now over the sea with a beautiful
sunset, but for most of the day we couldn't see more than a few feet.
Got into the village, got dinner in with the local pub, and now
turning in to rest up for what will be my penultimate day of walking.
3 months living on the road almost over.

JULY 31st - BRORA TO HELMSDALE

Another hot day in the Highlands. Into a good pace now so were in by
lunch, sea views all the way. Great hostel, got all the kit sorted out
and am relaxing as Jim knocks up a big chicken dinner before we tackle
the Balrog. About 3 days until we reach the sign.

JULY 30TH - DORNOCH TO BRORA

Left the village with supplies and walked to Loch Fleet, went round it
as wading finished off a local a few years ago. Came into Golsbie and
then the beach, friendly husky keeper gave us coffee. Further up found
some seals lying about. Very hot day, crossed a golf course, in for
tea with the midge.

JULY 29TH - TAIN TO DORNOCH

Half day as both needed repairing. Sea walks, saw hooded crows, site
with ping pong table, nice rest. Few days along the side of the
mountains, then into JOG and maybe a boat trip to see a man about a
puffin.

JULY 28TH - EVANTON TO TAIN

Sunny day, reached next town for fry up, discovered square sausage.
Pushed on over ridge, a thick mist rolled towards us as we approached
the sea. Camped near distillery and small bar, all very nice, Feels
remote here, people friendly. Coffee time.

JULY 27th - INVERNESS TO EVANTON

So begins the final leg. Crossed the bridge north fuelled on two days
of fast food, then forest and hill roads to this little town with very
flash campsite. Decisions tomorrow on last route. Bought new socks,
off to burn old. Great to have evening card games.

JULY 24TH - INVERNESS

Ran out of coffee and so made an early run into town where I am now
mainlining espresso and sitting in the sun reading the paper like the
last week of rugged mountain walking was all a bizarre dream. Off to
book my site, back on the road Sunday for the final section.

JULY 23RD - AVIEMORE TO AUCHNAHILLIN

(4 miles south of Culloden James) Full day today. The dusty Highlands
in blazing sun (28 degrees apparently) is an unusual sight, and the
Scots seem to take cover, the only walkers I met in the moumtains were
English. Took the scenic route along General Wade's military road.
Heard a wolf at one point very loud but far off, wondered if the
sanctuary was nearby. Site a morning's walk to Inverness, and a few
days of rest before the last leg.

JULY 22ND - NEWTONSOMETHING TO AVIEMORE

Another beautiful day (not many entries started like that so far)
filled with mountains and forests and roadkill. This town is the
tourist gateway to the Cairngorms and heaving with people. One of the
mountains appears to still be snowy. Went into a frantic Tesco to get
some Bombay Mix, then forgot why I was there in the chaos. Was a
hardened Londoner in what feels like another life. Reading Klein's
Shock Doctrine. Saw a weasal.

JULY 21 - DALWHINNIE TO NEWTONMORE

Half day today as urgently needed to wash/burn clothes. Sun shone at
last, mountain landscape looks more like North Africa in places.
Picked up a book on Charles II someone discarded. Kit once again
replenished although I doubt I'll need to rough it until after
Inverness, which is 60 odd miles north. There I'll be joined by Jim
for the last leg up the north-east coast, where I'm told the beach
makes good camping. Seems unlikely!

JULY 20TH - CALVINE TO DALWHINNIE

Emerged from forest and headed into the Pass of Drumochter, entering
the Highlands. The weather let me through but the wind fought me all
the way, needed all my emergency rations. Made it into petrol station,
ate 5 kilos of chocolate (my beer gut reserves are all used up) then
pitched behind a creepy disused transport cafe.

JULY 19TH - PITLOCHRY TO CALVINE

Walked up to the foot of the mountains, and took dinner in a pub, game
pie, having passed various historic castles and stones. No site so
wandered half a mile into this mossy old wood next to a waterfall and
made camp for the night.

JULY 18TH - DUNKELD TO PITLOCHRY

Short forest walk today, following a cycle track north. Interesting
little town with a dam and a bouncy bridge. Campsite surrounded by
misty mountain. Tomorrow promises to be a bit more remote so another
early start fuelled by the ridiculous amount of coffee supplies I
carry about. Probably my last chance to see a pine marten too, they're
bloody elusive, as are the squirrels (alive anyway). Plenty of deer
though.

JULY 18TH - PERTH TO DUNKELD

Crossed back over Perth and finally got out of towns and back on the
lanes and trails. Light rain fell sporadically all day, forming steam
on the ground, gathering round the mountains and falling again.
Further up tomorrow and then a long mountain valley trek on Saturday,
weather permitting. Hating midge spray, covered in DEET.

JULY 16TH - KINROSS TO PERTH

Vacated festival where the clean up continued and continued north in
the sun following the Tay and some lochs. Had a wander around Perth
and then into some forest and this site. Some decent hills coming up,
leaving the towns for a while now until Inverness.

JULY 15TH - EDINBURGH TO KINROSS

Back to it and another long day, over the Firth of Forth and into
Fife. Took a while to get back into the mindset but arrived just in
time to realise my intended site is in fact T in the Park. Owners let
me stay kindly anyway, as they fix up the devastation.

JULY 12TH - GALASHIELS TO EDINBURGH

35 miles, job done. Posh hotel booked for three nights of holiday
bliss. Signing off til the last push.

JULY 11TH - JEDBURGH TO GALLASHIELS

Woke to the sound of bagpipes celebrating the expulsion of the English
and an old tree. Ate haggis and left quickly. Dilemma now, 33 miles to
Edinburgh, not a lot in between. Reckon 25 is about my best so far.
Have no map for the last 15, but there'll be signs. Want to try and
avoid being the hiker in Trainspotting seeking directions. All depends
what time I get up.

JULY 10TH - BYRNESS TO JEDBURGH

Crossed the border today. Stood briefly at Carters Bar (no bar - I'm
withdrawing patronage) but moved on fast as rain lashed down all day.
Have come indoors as kit needs the full service if I'm to continue in
this weather, ninja laundry operation in progress. Odd that this
morning Geordie accents were standard and now its all Scots. The first
helping of neeps and haggis can't be far off, and this is the weather
for it.

JULY 8TH AND 9TH - HALTWHISTLE TO BELLINGHAM TO BYRNESS

Busy couple of days, over Hadrians Wall, through Wark Forest and the
national park. I am but a stone's throw from the border, which I will
cross in the morning. Could feasibly be in Edinburgh by Sunday.

JULY 7TH - ALSTON TO HALTWHISTLE

Alston's weather forecast is solid drizzle permanently, it being high
on the hill. Haltwhistle is a fair bit jollier, I've taken a room as
all my spares are wet. Bought a copy of The Power And The Glory, a
mass of junk food to make up for all the fruit I've been eating and I
have a TV and a bath, so crazy times ahead. Tomorrow I cross the Wall.

JULY 6TH - ORMSBY TO ALSTON

Grim start to the day, big hills in a rain cloud. Got to do some Croc
Dundee hypnosis on a frantic sheep stuck in wire. Then the clouds
parted to reveal hill top cafe serving coffee and tiffin, much needed.
Stormed into town, pitching on resi site which are always friendly if
they take you. Getting my 10 to 15 done by one these days, so
afternoons spent in cafes reading and writing. Suspect tomorrow may be
longer.

JULY 5TH - APPLEBY TO ORMSBY

Another quick stint today, the weather up here is pretty poor. Nothing
here but a pub, which I will shortly be visiting before staggering
into my sodden tent and heading for Hadrian's wall in the morning.

JULY 4TH - KIRKBY STEPHEN TO APPLEBY

Romped the 12 miles of flat ground at last on this one and so spent
the afternoon eating a kilo of peanut mms and lying in the sun, which
is one way to squander time and physique. Another small market town
with its local craft stuff, all very nice. Concluded today that the
average food out served in England is shabby and over-priced wherever
you go. The art of sandwich needs a rethink nationally.

JULY 3RD - HAWES TO KIRKBY STEPHEN

Enjoyed a happy day off with my Kiwi cousin, also on UK travels, with
the finest camp cooked meal of the journey. Today crossed the border
into Cumbria past spectacular hills. The Scottish midge has found its
way south and is a pain nightly after 8. I should reach Hadrian's Wall
by Monday, followed by some monstrous forest.

JULY 30TH - THE YORKSHIRE DALES

Lost track of when I last did this, Virgin not well served out here.
Last few nights were Hebdon Bridge, Foulridge, Malham, Something
Ribble, and tonight Hawes. Currently stood on top of Wether Fell being
buzzed by fighters and munching Kendal Mint Cake, the hiker's crack
cocaine. Possible day off tomorrow if nice village. Met some more
friendly hikers, eaten every flavour of Super Noodle, and reached
Thatcher in my 100 years of politics book.

JUNE 23, 24, 25, 26 - THE NORTH AND THE PENNINE WAY

Specifically Blackwell, Edale, Crowden, Marsden each night. Green
hills have turned black with peat, and most days involve climbs to
5-600m (Kinder Scout, Bleak Head etc) in heavy rain, but worth it.
Tonight indoors for the first time in 10 days, very wet out. Eaten
many midges, followed tennis, and heard a few tales on the road.
Liking everything about Yorkshire. Bit remote so not able to update
always, the Way on should take about 18 days.

JUNE 23RD - TISSINGTON TO BLACKWELL

All off road today, made it to the Pennine Bridleway. Lots of rolling
hills and that sort of thing. Tomorrow should put me in Edale for the
night ready to go up Jacob's Ladder and begin the way proper. Weather
much better. Stopped into little village of Hartington for coffee fix,
after which the paths became a bit more craggy. Thanks to latest
sponsors, gradually heading to a grand which is fantastic. Right,
maccie cheese in a tin awaits.

JUNE 21ST - UTTOXETER TO TISSINGTON

Here I am in the Peak District at last then. Bought myself a cheeky
red beanie, a new bed roll and a set of serious maps that will see me
through the white and black parts of the Peak District and onto the
Pennine Way at Edale. Bit blowy out here at the mo, but little tent
doesn't seem phased by the gales. Proper hill walking from here on,
get some use out of the kit and see some country. My hair is turning
very blonde and have lost my eyebrows.

June 21st - Uttoxeter to, er, Uttoxeter

Slept straight through the morning and woke to find myself barely able to get out of the tent such was the wind and rain. So I'm based today in the local library instead of walking, which is all very nice and placed handily near a Subway. Feel on top form after a couple of days off, and realised I actually am essentially in the Peak District already. Aiming for Edale where the Pennine Way begins, although not sure it will be my only route, prefer storming along roads in poor weather.

Very low on battery for the phone (hence this comes from the library) and not a lot of places to charge ahead so may be out of contact for a day or so to save the last bit for emergencies - like Dominoes deliveries.

One last thing

Full time hiker (great euphamism by the way) I lost your email, do
join me on the Peak if you can. That goes for everyone too. Guiness
time at last.

JUNE 19TH CANNOCK FOREST TO UTTOXETER

Sun is shining, weather is sweet and the race course I'm pitching on
has a folk night on which they just invited me to, so it's time for a
rest day. Signing off until Saturday, which means I'll probably hit
the Peak District around Monday.

JUNE 18th - TELFORD TO CANNOCK FOREST

Today was particularly heinous. Rained a fair bit, and as this day was
very long used huge Roman road which was monotonous. Finally knee went
towards the end. But now I'm fed and sat in warm tent watching this
forest and feeling pretty pleased with myself, and all is well. Got
the hang of dealing with wet tent in rain now, so very comfortable,
although the peacock nearby keeps freaking me out.

JUNE 17th - BRIDGNORTH TO TELFORD

Left my duck buddy and rode Bridgnorth cliff rail to the shops (walked
back) then followed Severn again. Oyster like shells broken all over
the place. Cut mole on arm and performed minor field surgery
successfully. Campsite no good again but friendly farmer has put me up
in backyard. Meant to say, had my first car pass screaming SCRUBBERS
the other day with gesture, good stuff. Big wet day tomorrow. Might
even have a wash.

JUNE 16th - KIDDERMINSTER TO BRIDGNORTH

Nice day in the country today. Went to Kinver with every intention of
mounting a big push north, but was too tired (and full of Ginsters
more to the point) so commissioned some satellite investigation and
headed here. Weather still great, and this big touring park friendly
and free for me. As I watched the clouds and listened to Clue a duck
joined me with a friendly peck on the arm. He's studying the map at
the mo, I'm hoping for directions.

JUNE 15th and 16th - HOOK BANK TO WORCESTER TO KIDDERMINSTER

Spent Saturday heading to Worcester, where we discovered the campsite
had been disappeared by last year's floods and the Malvern show had
filled the BBs. Found a room in the end with great views of the Severn
and cathedral. Saw Indy, not impressed. Today I bid farewell to a trek
hardened Kiran and continued to Kiddie solo, after first site said
they'd been meaning to take down the tents welcome sign and added 7
miles to my alleged rest day. Ta.

JUNE 12th and 13th - MORETON VALENCE TO THE HAW TO HOOK BANK

Last two days began with a walk up to and through Gloucester where
people are strange, and not necessarily just when you're a stranger.
Camped north of town on the Severn behind pub which was covered in
signs and notices on how to behave. We behaved. Next day headed
towards Great Malvern with the hills marking the path. Kiran collapsed
in corn field. Spending night camped behind nice old pub with a view
to heading into Worcester tomorrow.

JUNE 11th - LOWER WICK TO MORETON VALANCE

More road walking today, mercifully cooler. Weaved around the M5, what
can I say, today was pretty dull. Nice dinner, cooked something other
than Super Noodles. These little hamlets are all south of Gloucester
(if that helps James), which we will cross tomorrow via the Severn.

JUNE 10th - CHIPPING SODBURY TO LOWER WICK

Gladly vacated Chip Sod and walked a boring road up past endless
quarries. First night camping for a while, much better. Nice easy
trail ahead along the Severn Way, lots of sites on beauty spots and
idyllic posh towns. Bit concerned I'm being drawn nearer and nearer to
Brummies. Saw first hare today.

JUNE 9th - KEYNSHAM TO CHIPPING SODBURY

Set off early and followed the Monarch Way north. Many paths were
completely overgrown, hacked our way through and made it to a pub
hotel which, frankly, is crawling. Tomorrow marks the beginning of a
few days camping thankfully, as we head up Gloucester through clouds
of grass pollen.

JUNE 8th - BRISTOL TO KEYNSHAM

Short day as first half spent acquiring supplies, and most the
afternoon leaving Bristol. In position to get into the Cotswalds first
thing tomorrow. Very few campsites so may need to disappear into the
hills for a few days for a little adventure.

7th JUNE - CHEDDAR TO BRISTOL

Back to it and a great first day. Met a fellow hiker and enjoyed a
brief wander together across the Mendips, spotted apparently wild
goats, and then stormed up to Bristol for dinner with Kiran, who is
joining me for a week. Good to be back.

HEADING BACK OUT

After much huffing I will be heading back to Cheddar for an early start to Bristol on Saturday morning. Cheddar has to be one of the most difficult and yet not remote places to get to without a car. Typical I picked it as the break point. No matter, I will head through the gorge, plod around the Mendips, and then pick up my first special guest traveller on Saturday night. Future path looks like the Cotswold Way, Heart of England way, Staffordshire Way, Pennine Way, Scotland.

TIME OUT

Well, made it about a third of the way (maybe a quarter depending on the route ahead). Chilling with friends and family for a week now, so good to see the inside of a house and have a conversation.

I'll be back on the road in June, where I'll be completing the remainder of the walk in one long slog. I'm in fairly good shape so far, and averaging 15-20 miles a day compared to the meagre 8 when I started.

Will pop some photos up over the next few days. Thanks to everyone who left messages by phone or email the last few weeks, and sorry I haven't responded. Communication has been a bit tricky, I will catch up over the next week.

A few people have wanted to join me along the next leg - do let me know, the more the merrier.

Back in June then for the Cotswold Way.

DAY 18 - BRIDGEWATER TO CHEDDAR

Think it's 18 anyway, losing track. Crossed what I think was the
Somerset levels and met my first other end to ender, a sound Kiwi who
aims to pull it off in 6 weeks. There be a storm coming, but no
matter, I'm here til Monday, then Bristol where I'll be signing off
until June, when I'll be back to finish the job. Now, time to tune in
to Sir Tel for some quality tunes.

DAY 17 - ROADWATER TO BRIDGEWATER

Well and truly out of the moor now, crossed the Quantocks and part of
the Coleridge way today. Got caught in a storm which is going to
happen all weekend. Looking forward to some down time soon before the
Cotswolds. This is the first non-tourist town I've seen so far. Back
to reality, now where's the takeaway?

EXMOOR UPDATE

Smidge of signal here so quick update. Went through Exford yesterday,
about 6 miles from Roadwater now. Did about 25 miles yesterday. Have
herded sheep, seen red deer, fallen in bogs and climbed the hill. Sun
just out after grim weather. Thanks for support all. Onward!

DAY 14 - BARNSTAPLE

Well I have enjoyed a rest and restocked as tomorrow I do Exmoor.
Leaving at dawn as I want to break the back of it before the weather
turns. Good chance I'll have to rough it, and no reception, so I'll
sign off now for a few days. Best stick to the path methinks. I have
to be out of there by Saturday, not missing Eurovision. Don't believe
the hype, the Irish turkey won't win.

DAY 13 - BUCK'S CROSS TO BARNSTAPLE

Finally finished my section of the coastal path. Saw a chough a few
days back (google it) which has impressed the locals no end. Now that
I've made some ground and look suitably haggard I'm getting donations
and free grub and camping, all good stuff. After 5 day's hard graft
I've taken a hotel to wash, chill and plan the next stage - Exmoor.
Tomorrow I transfer to an outskirt campsite, after that, will
disappear for a few days.

DAY 11 - BUDE TO BUCK'S CROSS

Sun is shining and all is well. Today I finally made it to Devon.
Cornwall was both stunning and grim, depending on the weather. I now
smell a lot like a sweaty dog rolling on a rotting mackerel. Tomorrow
Barnstaple, where I will be entering tea rooms and demanding cake and
fine wine.

DAYS 10 AND 11 - WADE BRIDGE TO BUDE

Well the last few days have been stormy, been pretty rough. went to
boscastle yesterday, the flooding there a few years back was crazy.
This should be my last night in Cornwall, thanks be to the pasties.
Onto Devon and Exmoor. Sconetastic.

DAY 8 - NEWQUAY TO WADEBRIDGE

Made a bit of ground today, back in the saddle so to speak. There are
plenty of posters about the beast, but so far I've only seen the odd
threatening stoat. Phone now back on normal time. Tomorrow as yet
unclear, but will avoid main moor as 86 yr old dude with banjo told me
I would surely die, and I'm tiring of near death experiences. Onward!

DAY 7 - NEWQUAY

Well bit of a right off today as had a spot of sunburn and was
generally knackered, have lost about a stone in the last week! All
mended now, back on track tomorrow.

DAY 6 - PERRANPORTH TO NEWQUAY

Weather here is perfect. Watched the sun set last night on the sea,
the Cornish beaches on a hot day are as good as any. They just need
Farmer's Union iced coffee. Having a night out in Newquay later.
Tomorrow heading inland to make some time up, done the coast, bring on
the moors.

DAY 6 - PORTREATH TO PERRANPORTH

Long day today, blazing sun. Came inland on massive detour,
unexciting. Camping tonight
in proper seaside town. Feet are not happy, I'm going to buy them a
beer in the sunshine to cheer them up. Tomorrow Newquay!

DAY 5 - ST IVES TO PORTREATH

After a sunny holiday break in luxury got back on the road and did 20
miles to the hostel here. And now they tell me it's a mile to the pub!
Thick fog surrounded me all day. Passed a pub called the Bucket of
Blood that serves a pint of Doom ale, then had tea at Hell's Mouth.
These people have issues. Tomorrow Perranporth.

DAY 3 - PENDEEN TO ST IVES

Made it. It transpires that this section of the coast path was devised
by sadists, so after the fifth particularly gruelling ascent I left
and came in land. Still racked up 15 odd miles. St Ives is idyllic, so
I'm staying two nights in a cosy bb on the harbour. Signing off until
Sunday!

DAY 2 - SENNEN TO PENDEEN

Day cut short by gross navigational error. Atlantic still stunning.
Dining and camping in good pub. Try to St Ives tomorrow. Loving nice
locals, sunshine and food. Hating evil locals, mine shafts and fake
paths. Here comes my pie.

DAY ONE - LANDS END TO SENNEN

Just a short stroll today as getting here was a mission. Weather is
great, views spectacular. Time to boil up some tea and pop the radio
on. Thanks for all the good luck messages.

Training

Last few days of heavy training and the weather looks to be good. My
next post will be from Cornwall, I take the sleeper midnight tuesday.

Remote blogging and last goodbyes

If this text appears then I have mastered how to update this whilst on the move, which is handy.

 

It's been a week of many farewells before I set off solo. I'll see people out on the road, but leaving London is fairly momentous after the last ten years.

 

Onward. One week to go. 

Two weeks and counting

Seems like the weather has finally turned a corner. By the end of this week I will be officially unemployed and, shortly after that, of no fixed abode.

I've added a stove to my new home, to warm through those all-day breakfasts in a tin. Once the Bank Holiday is done, I'm off, give or take. A sleeper train will see me to Penzance, where I'll pick up some guides, and then the bus will take me to Land's End. That will be the end of public transport for a while. From there I need to find a rock which is the most westerly point, and then I'll camp a couple of miles north in Sennen, all being well.

I'll be keeping this up to date by my phone, which is not state of the art, so site may look a little bedraggled, much like I will no doubt.

My new home

Single unfurnished studio accommodation, outdoor toilet, great views, no council tax.

Comes with gas stove appliances and a ready supply of concentrated oxtail soup.

I'm so lucky.

One month to go

So, one month left and time to increase training and decrease pie consumption.

Bought a tent weighing in at 1kg this weekend which I'll be taking for a test run at the weekend with a friend. Will also shack up with the foxes in the garden later this week to see how it feels about the cold and the wet.

Route-wise, am torn between starting with the South West Coastal Path (SWCP) or heading out onto Bodmin and Dartmoor. Also unsure whether to take on the Highlands, but that decision can be made at the Scottish borders.

And so it begins

So, I'm into the last couple of months now before I set off from Land's End (that's in Cornwall) and head up to John O'Groats (Scotland).

I'm off in May, and training and preparations are going pretty well. I guess my main concerns are:

• Finding a cheap way to stay in touch online when I'm in the middle of nowhere.
• Picking a good route out from the choices on the web put there by the many helpful people who have done it before.
• Learning a thing or two about camping and stuff.

And if no-one accidentally releases any foot and mouth in the next few weeks, everything should be peachy.